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san francisco

San Francisco Travel Guide: What to See, Where to Eat & How to Spend Your Time San Francisco is one of those cities you recognize before you ever visit. The Golden Gate Bridge disappearing into the fog, cable cars climbing impossibly steep streets, colorful Victorian houses and the blue water of the bay make it feel completely different from almost anywhere else in the country. It’s compact enough to see a lot in a few days, but don’t let the map fool you. Those hills are very real. Here’s how I’d spend a few days exploring San Francisco. Getting to San Francisco Most visitors arrive through San Francisco International Airport, about 13 miles south of downtown. You really don’t need a rental car if you’re staying within the city. Between BART, Muni, cable cars, rideshares and walking, getting around is relatively easy—and parking can quickly become more trouble and expense than it’s worth. If you’re planning to continue into Napa Valley, Sonoma, Muir Woods or farther along the California coast, that’s when I’d consider renting a car. See the Golden Gate Bridge Obviously, we’re starting here. The Golden Gate Bridge stretches across the entrance to San Francisco Bay and is every bit as impressive in person as it looks in photographs. You can walk part—or all—of the bridge, but some of my favorite views are actually from a distance. Battery Spencer on the Marin side gives you that dramatic view looking back toward the bridge and San Francisco. Crissy Field offers a beautiful waterfront perspective from the city side. And then there’s Baker Beach. On a clear day, you get the beach, Pacific Ocean and Golden Gate Bridge all in one view. Just don’t count on perfectly clear weather. San Francisco’s fog has its own itinerary. Ride a Cable Car Is it touristy? Completely. Should you do it anyway? Absolutely. San Francisco’s historic cable cars have been climbing the city’s hills since the 1800s, and riding one is one of those experiences that actually deserves its spot on every first-time visitor’s list. The Powell-Hyde line is especially popular because of the views along the route. Try riding earlier in the morning if you want to avoid some of the longest lines. Fisherman’s Wharf & Pier 39 Fisherman’s Wharf is another heavily visited area, but it makes sense to see it at least once. Walk along the waterfront, browse the shops and stop at Pier 39 to see San Francisco’s famous sea lions sprawled across the docks. This is also a perfectly appropriate place to eat something involving sourdough bread. Preferably with clam chowder inside it. Visit Alcatraz Sitting in the middle of San Francisco Bay, Alcatraz Island is one attraction I would absolutely reserve ahead of time. The former federal prison once held some of America’s most notorious inmates, including Al Capone. Your visit begins with a ferry ride across the bay before you explore the island and prison itself. The audio tour inside the cellhouse is especially worth doing because it gives the building much more context than simply walking through it. You’ll also get some incredible views back toward San Francisco. Give yourself several hours for the entire experience. Explore Chinatown San Francisco’s Chinatown is one of the oldest and largest Chinese communities in North America. Enter through the Dragon Gate and then wander. You’ll find bakeries, markets, tea shops, restaurants, temples and tiny storefronts packed along the neighborhood’s streets and alleys. Grant Avenue gets most of the attention, but wander onto Stockton Street as well if you want to see a less polished, more everyday side of the neighborhood. And arrive hungry. See the Painted Ladies You’ve probably seen these houses even if you don’t know their name. The Painted Ladies are the row of colorful Victorian homes beside Alamo Square that have become one of San Francisco’s most recognizable views. Bring coffee, sit in Alamo Square Park and enjoy the skyline behind them. You don’t need a huge block of time here. It’s an easy stop to combine with exploring some of the surrounding neighborhoods. Lombard Street Welcome to one of the strangest streets in America. The famous section of Lombard Street features eight tight hairpin turns descending a steep hill surrounded by landscaping and beautiful homes. Walk to the top for views toward the bay, then make your way down. And yes, your calves will know you’ve been to San Francisco by the end of this trip. Ferry Building Marketplace The Ferry Building is one of my favorite places to combine sightseeing with eating. Located along the Embarcadero, the historic building is filled with food shops, restaurants and local vendors. It’s a great place to grab breakfast or lunch before walking along the waterfront. If your trip falls on a farmers market day, even better. Spend Time in North Beach Despite the name, North Beach isn’t actually a beach. It’s San Francisco’s historic Italian neighborhood and a great place to wander when you’re ready for pasta, pizza, espresso and old-school neighborhood atmosphere. Stop at City Lights Booksellers, one of San Francisco’s most famous independent bookstores, and then wander toward Washington Square. North Beach also sits right beside Chinatown, making the two neighborhoods easy to explore together. Golden Gate Park You could easily spend half a day—or longer—in Golden Gate Park. The enormous park stretches for more than three miles and contains gardens, museums, trails and green spaces. Inside you’ll find the California Academy of Sciences, de Young Museum and Japanese Tea Garden. If museums aren’t your thing, simply walk through the park and enjoy a quieter side of San Francisco. Lands End For some of the best coastal scenery in the city, head to Lands End. Walking trails follow the rugged coastline with views of the Pacific Ocean and Golden Gate Bridge. You’ll also find the ruins of the Sutro Baths nearby. This is the San Francisco I wouldn’t skip—the dramatic, slightly wild edge of the city where it feels like the Pacific Ocean is taking over. Bring layers. The wind coming off the water can be cold even when the rest of the city feels comfortable. Take a Day Trip to Muir Woods If you have another day, leave the city and go stand underneath some very large trees. Muir Woods National Monument protects an incredible grove of old-growth coastal redwoods just north of San Francisco. Some of these trees reach more than 250 feet tall. The main trails are relatively easy, and you don’t need to be an experienced hiker to enjoy the park. Parking and shuttle reservations can be required, so this is something I’d plan before arriving rather than deciding on at breakfast. Napa Valley If wine country is calling, Napa Valley is roughly an hour to an hour and a half from San Francisco depending on traffic and where you’re headed. You can visit wineries, have an absurdly long lunch, wander through towns like Yountville or St. Helena and turn the trip into an overnight stay if you have enough time. If you’re wine tasting, I’d arrange transportation rather than driving yourself between wineries. What to Eat in San Francisco Come hungry. San Francisco is one of those cities where food should be part of the itinerary rather than something you squeeze between attractions. Try sourdough bread, Dungeness crab when it’s in season, dim sum in Chinatown, Italian food in North Beach and something from the Ferry Building. And don’t automatically choose restaurants based on which ones are closest to the biggest tourist attractions. Walk a few blocks away. Explore the neighborhoods. That’s usually where things get more interesting. When to Visit San Francisco Here’s the slightly strange thing about San Francisco: summer isn’t necessarily when you’ll find the warmest weather. June, July and August can be surprisingly cool and foggy, particularly in the mornings and evenings. September and October often bring some of the city’s warmer, sunnier weather. Spring can also be beautiful, with mild temperatures and fewer peak-summer visitors. Regardless of when you visit, bring layers. A sunny afternoon can become a cold, windy evening very quickly. A Simple 3-Day San Francisco Itinerary Day One: Start around the Ferry Building and Embarcadero, explore Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39, visit Alcatraz and finish the day around North Beach and Chinatown. Day Two: Visit the Golden Gate Bridge, walk through Crissy Field, explore Golden Gate Park and finish with Lands End or Baker Beach around sunset. Day Three: See the Painted Ladies and Lombard Street, ride a cable car and then choose a half- or full-day trip outside the city to Muir Woods. If you have another day, I’d use it for Napa Valley—or simply stop trying to accomplish anything and spend the day wandering San Francisco’s neighborhoods. Before You Go San Francisco isn’t a city I’d try to experience entirely from a checklist. See Alcatraz. Ride the cable car. Photograph the Golden Gate Bridge. But then wander. Walk into the tiny bakery you weren’t looking for. Sit beside the bay for a while. Find a neighborhood restaurant. Watch the fog roll over the Golden Gate Bridge. And whatever shoes you pack, make sure you can walk uphill in them. Because San Francisco will absolutely test that decision.
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