estes park, colorado
There are mountain towns, and then there’s Estes Park.
Sitting at the doorstep of Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park is the kind of place where you can drink your morning coffee while elk wander through town, spend the afternoon driving above the tree line, and be back in time for dinner beside a river. It’s beautiful without requiring an elaborate itinerary—which is exactly how I like a mountain trip.
Getting There
If you’re flying, Denver International Airport (DEN) is the easiest option. Estes Park is roughly 75 miles from the airport, but plan on around 1½–2 hours of driving, depending on traffic and weather.
Renting a car is absolutely worth it here. You’ll want the freedom to explore Rocky Mountain National Park, stop at overlooks, drive into town whenever you want, and change plans when you inevitably see something interesting along the road.
Check the traditional rental companies at Denver International Airport, but also compare Turo. Depending on your dates, it can sometimes be considerably cheaper—especially if you want an SUV.
And no, you don’t need some enormous wilderness vehicle. In summer, a normal car is perfectly adequate for the main paved roads around Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park.
The Drive to Estes Park
Don’t treat the drive from Denver as dead travel time.
Once you leave the Denver area and start climbing toward the mountains, Colorado begins showing off. The landscape gradually changes from city and plains to foothills, rock walls, pine trees and mountain views.
If you have time, take the scenic approach through Boulder and Lyons rather than making getting there a race.
Stop when you want to stop. Get coffee. Take pictures. You’re in Colorado.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of hotels in Estes Park, but this is one destination where I’d strongly consider a cabin, lodge or riverfront property.
Look around Fall River, the Big Thompson River or closer to the entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park if you’re primarily coming for the scenery.
If you want to walk to restaurants and shops at night, stay closer to downtown Estes Park.
And then, of course, there is The Stanley Hotel.
Yes, that Stanley Hotel.
Stephen King stayed there in 1974, and his experience helped inspire The Shining. Even if you don’t stay overnight, it’s worth stopping by to see the property—and if creepy hotel history is your thing, look into one of their tours.
Rocky Mountain National Park
This is the reason to come.
Rocky Mountain National Park is enormous, so don’t make the mistake of thinking you’re going to “do the park” in an afternoon.
You aren’t.
Pick a few priorities and leave yourself room to wander.
Trail Ridge Road
If you’re visiting while Trail Ridge Road is open, drive it.
The road climbs above 12,000 feet and crosses the alpine tundra, with enormous mountain views and overlooks along the way. You’ll go from forests to a landscape where trees simply can’t grow anymore.
Bring a jacket.
Yes, even if it’s warm in Estes Park.
Mountain weather does not care what outfit you planned.
Bear Lake
Bear Lake is one of the classic stops in the park and an easy way to get beautiful mountain-and-water scenery without committing to an enormous hike. From the Bear Lake area, you can also hike toward Nymph Lake, Dream Lake and Emerald Lake if you want something longer. Dream Lake is particularly gorgeous. Sprague Lake If you want something quieter and easy, Sprague Lake is lovely. There’s a relatively flat loop around the water with mountain views reflected across the lake. It’s a good option for an early morning when you want scenery without turning the day into an endurance event. Go Looking for Wildlife—But Don’t Be an Idiot Estes Park is famous for elk. And I mean elk wandering through town famous. You may see them in fields, beside roads, around businesses and occasionally looking like they own the place. You can also encounter mule deer, marmots, bighorn sheep and other wildlife throughout the area. Enjoy them from a distance. The fact that an elk is standing next to a sidewalk does not mean the elk has agreed to participate in your vacation selfie. Downtown Estes Park Give yourself a few hours to wander downtown. You’ll find little shops, candy stores, coffee, restaurants and the Riverwalk running through town. It’s touristy, yes, but pleasantly touristy. This isn’t where I’d spend an entire Colorado vacation, but it’s perfect after you’ve spent the day in the mountains and want dinner, ice cream and absolutely no additional hiking. Where to Eat Bird & Jim This is one of the places I’d put near the top of the dinner list. The menu leans Colorado-inspired and seasonal, with a more polished atmosphere than the typical tourist-town burger joint. The Rock Inn Mountain Tavern A cozy mountain tavern near the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. This is the kind of place that feels especially good after you’ve been outside all day. Notchtop Bakery & Café A solid breakfast stop before heading into the park. Coffee, pancakes, eggs and the sort of breakfast that makes sense before spending several hours wandering around at altitude. Donut Haus If you’re going to eat a doughnut on vacation, eating one before disappearing into the Rocky Mountains seems like a perfectly reasonable life choice. Go early. A Perfect Estes Park Day Wake up early. And by early, I mean actually early. Grab coffee and breakfast, then head into Rocky Mountain National Park before the crowds build. Start around Bear Lake and walk to Dream Lake if you’re up for it. Spend late morning driving Trail Ridge Road, stopping shamelessly at overlooks whenever the view demands it. Have a late lunch, go back to your hotel or cabin for a little while, and then wander downtown Estes Park in the evening. Eat somewhere good. Walk along the river. Then get away from the lights and look at the sky. Don’t Forget the Stars One of my favorite reasons to stay outside the center of town is nighttime. Once you get away from Denver’s light pollution, the sky becomes part of the trip. If it’s clear, take a drive toward Rocky Mountain National Park after dark, find an appropriate place to stop, turn off the car lights and give your eyes a few minutes to adjust. Then look up. When to Go Summer: Gorgeous weather, wildflowers and access to the high-elevation roads—but also the largest crowds. September and early October: Probably my favorite combination. Cooler weather, changing aspens and the elk rut make fall especially beautiful. Winter: Snowy, quiet and completely different. Some park roads close seasonally, but Estes Park becomes a cozy little mountain escape. Spring: Less predictable. Snow can linger at higher elevations well after you’ve mentally moved on to spring. Things I Would Know Before Going Rocky Mountain National Park may require timed-entry reservations during busy periods, and the Bear Lake Road corridor can have additional entry requirements. Check the National Park Service before your trip rather than assuming you’ll be able to drive straight in. Altitude is also real. Estes Park itself sits around 7,500 feet above sea level, and Trail Ridge Road takes you thousands of feet higher. Drink water, don’t schedule your hardest hike thirty minutes after arriving from sea level, and pay attention to how you’re feeling. Mountain weather changes quickly, too. A sunny morning does not guarantee a sunny afternoon. Keep a jacket in the car. How Long Should You Stay? I’d give Estes Park at least three nights. That gives you one major Rocky Mountain National Park day, another day for slower exploring and wildlife, and enough breathing room that bad weather doesn’t destroy the entire plan. Four nights would be even better if you really want to hike. The Part I’d Come Back For It’s not downtown. It’s not The Stanley. It’s not even one particular hike. It’s waking up early when the mountains are still quiet, stepping outside with coffee, seeing the peaks in the distance and realizing you don’t actually have to be anywhere. That’s Estes Park. Don’t over-plan it. Get the rental car. Get yourself into the mountains. Take the road that looks interesting. And if an elk causes a traffic jam? Congratulations. You’re officially in Colorado.
Bear Lake is one of the classic stops in the park and an easy way to get beautiful mountain-and-water scenery without committing to an enormous hike. From the Bear Lake area, you can also hike toward Nymph Lake, Dream Lake and Emerald Lake if you want something longer. Dream Lake is particularly gorgeous. Sprague Lake If you want something quieter and easy, Sprague Lake is lovely. There’s a relatively flat loop around the water with mountain views reflected across the lake. It’s a good option for an early morning when you want scenery without turning the day into an endurance event. Go Looking for Wildlife—But Don’t Be an Idiot Estes Park is famous for elk. And I mean elk wandering through town famous. You may see them in fields, beside roads, around businesses and occasionally looking like they own the place. You can also encounter mule deer, marmots, bighorn sheep and other wildlife throughout the area. Enjoy them from a distance. The fact that an elk is standing next to a sidewalk does not mean the elk has agreed to participate in your vacation selfie. Downtown Estes Park Give yourself a few hours to wander downtown. You’ll find little shops, candy stores, coffee, restaurants and the Riverwalk running through town. It’s touristy, yes, but pleasantly touristy. This isn’t where I’d spend an entire Colorado vacation, but it’s perfect after you’ve spent the day in the mountains and want dinner, ice cream and absolutely no additional hiking. Where to Eat Bird & Jim This is one of the places I’d put near the top of the dinner list. The menu leans Colorado-inspired and seasonal, with a more polished atmosphere than the typical tourist-town burger joint. The Rock Inn Mountain Tavern A cozy mountain tavern near the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. This is the kind of place that feels especially good after you’ve been outside all day. Notchtop Bakery & Café A solid breakfast stop before heading into the park. Coffee, pancakes, eggs and the sort of breakfast that makes sense before spending several hours wandering around at altitude. Donut Haus If you’re going to eat a doughnut on vacation, eating one before disappearing into the Rocky Mountains seems like a perfectly reasonable life choice. Go early. A Perfect Estes Park Day Wake up early. And by early, I mean actually early. Grab coffee and breakfast, then head into Rocky Mountain National Park before the crowds build. Start around Bear Lake and walk to Dream Lake if you’re up for it. Spend late morning driving Trail Ridge Road, stopping shamelessly at overlooks whenever the view demands it. Have a late lunch, go back to your hotel or cabin for a little while, and then wander downtown Estes Park in the evening. Eat somewhere good. Walk along the river. Then get away from the lights and look at the sky. Don’t Forget the Stars One of my favorite reasons to stay outside the center of town is nighttime. Once you get away from Denver’s light pollution, the sky becomes part of the trip. If it’s clear, take a drive toward Rocky Mountain National Park after dark, find an appropriate place to stop, turn off the car lights and give your eyes a few minutes to adjust. Then look up. When to Go Summer: Gorgeous weather, wildflowers and access to the high-elevation roads—but also the largest crowds. September and early October: Probably my favorite combination. Cooler weather, changing aspens and the elk rut make fall especially beautiful. Winter: Snowy, quiet and completely different. Some park roads close seasonally, but Estes Park becomes a cozy little mountain escape. Spring: Less predictable. Snow can linger at higher elevations well after you’ve mentally moved on to spring. Things I Would Know Before Going Rocky Mountain National Park may require timed-entry reservations during busy periods, and the Bear Lake Road corridor can have additional entry requirements. Check the National Park Service before your trip rather than assuming you’ll be able to drive straight in. Altitude is also real. Estes Park itself sits around 7,500 feet above sea level, and Trail Ridge Road takes you thousands of feet higher. Drink water, don’t schedule your hardest hike thirty minutes after arriving from sea level, and pay attention to how you’re feeling. Mountain weather changes quickly, too. A sunny morning does not guarantee a sunny afternoon. Keep a jacket in the car. How Long Should You Stay? I’d give Estes Park at least three nights. That gives you one major Rocky Mountain National Park day, another day for slower exploring and wildlife, and enough breathing room that bad weather doesn’t destroy the entire plan. Four nights would be even better if you really want to hike. The Part I’d Come Back For It’s not downtown. It’s not The Stanley. It’s not even one particular hike. It’s waking up early when the mountains are still quiet, stepping outside with coffee, seeing the peaks in the distance and realizing you don’t actually have to be anywhere. That’s Estes Park. Don’t over-plan it. Get the rental car. Get yourself into the mountains. Take the road that looks interesting. And if an elk causes a traffic jam? Congratulations. You’re officially in Colorado.
